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Climbing Breakdown: What is the ideal weight for rock climbing/bouldering? It’s not as simple as just weight to strength ratio. ***This video is a repost. UFC claimed rights to the Ultimate Fighter clip and I had to take it down and re-upload without the clip***

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Men Lead
Adam Ondra 185 – 67 – 19.6
Jakob Schubert 175 – 64 – 20.9
Gautier Supper 178 – 64 – 20.2
Domen Skofic 176 – 62 – 20
Romain Desgranges 174 – 57 – 18.8
Ramón Julian Puigblanque 158 – 48 – 19.2
Sebastian Halenke 177 – 65 – 20.7
Sean Mccoll 169 – 60 – 21
Stefano Ghisolfi 170 – 57 – 19.7

Men Bouldering
Chon Jongwon 169 – 51 – 17.9
Jan Hojer – 186 – 78 – 22.5
Adam Ondra 185 – 67 – 19.6
Nathaniel Coleman – 180 – 70 – 21.6
Alban Levier 170 – 58 – 20.1
Rustam Gelmanov 167 – 51 – 18.3
Kokoro Fujii 175 – 65 – 21.2
Sean Mccoll 169 – 60 – 21
Jeremy Bonder 169 – 58 – 20.3

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  1. Fascinating and statistically accurate video! Thank you 🙂

  2. Im 6'1 200 lbs and Im normally the only guy my size in there but Im banging out v2s now 🙁 LOL

  3. Liam says:

    great video thanks for the content my guy

  4. I'm 13 and gonna be 14 on the 31 of this month I am 5"3 or 5"4 not sure but I weigh 50kg's or 100 pounds I do climbing and Fighting is that good

  5. i would've liked to see the plot for just height as well.

  6. what would be my ideal weight at 5ft 10.5in?

  7. I have a bmi of about 22.3, I went rock climbing last week and I couldn't make it up the first wall. I didn't have the arm strength. Last year I did excellent and I was about 12 pounds lighter. I'm trying to lose the excess weight, and get back into climbing.

  8. nice video. One issue is that for the general population you take the US population. There are not many US top level climbers int the worldcup (for whatever reason) you probably should have included, if available stats from the most represented climbing countries in the IFSC (France, Austria, Slovenia, Germany, Japan, Korea, not necessarily in this order) I am pretty sure the general male population BMI in Europe and Asia is pretty different than that of the US. The other comment, in common with others is that the sample is small, it would probably benefit from taking into account more athletes (like all semi-finalists) as even being in the semi-final of the world cup is really high level.

  9. I'm going to be getting into bouldering soon and I have a BMI of 19.3 at the moment. Looks like I have a pretty good base to start on

  10. My bmi is 23. I am fat LOL

  11. Dzhao14 says:

    I like your video. Good work telling us what you did and giving us your interpretation while still understanding that the method could clearly be improved on and this the conclusions should be taken with a grain of salt.

  12. Matt says:

    sample group of 16 people?? man, we are going to have to wait until there are at least 10x that, preferably 100x that amount, before this data is going to be significant..

  13. Interesting breakdown.

  14. It's kind of sad that the cdc lists the healthy bmi range as 18 – 25 but the average bmi is 29. So the climbers are simply part of the subset of the population with healthy weights.

  15. Hell, do I need to drop fat or something? I'm 23.4 BMI and I thought I was fairly skinny but apparently I could be lower….screwy that that puts me 1.5 BMI from overweight.

  16. josh951623 says:

    Pretty neat video. I like stats, and this gives me a solid range to set as my goal. Thanks

  17. ale86pi says:

    Very good video, I really enjoyed it.
    One thing, though, regarding UFC fighters. You seemed to have used the weight class they fight at as their weight, but they actually tend to fight at a much higher weight than that. What they do is they lose a lot of water before the weigh-in, which takes place the day before the fight, and then re-hydrate. I'm no expert, but I think that they can easily cut 20 lbs or so…

  18. I think this idea is fascinating, but I don't think the data has been used in a relevant way. Firstly, a really small dataset in relation to the population of the US is going to be a bit questionable…you might have compared BMI of runners vs BMI of climbers in order to make a point there. Or pointed out that male averages can be between 18 – 48 in an average population, and shown that male climbers are in a tiny niche? Also, comparing male to female data has a few issues (as you pointed out). Perhaps one point could have been that weight is an important factor in climbing, but height and other measurable factors can also make the difference. Is a tall thin climber more successful than a shorter thin one? I'd like to see more people analyzing the data behind successful female climbers.

  19. I am the same height as Adam Ondra but he looks waaay skinnier than I do. Id say I have a similar body type to Sean Mccoll's, except that I'm 5'11 and he's 5'7. Why is it that even though Adam Ondra weighs 15 pounds more than I do (hes 150 lbs), and considering we're the same height, that he is so skinny looking?

  20. I swear I watched this same video about a week ago, either that or "Dejavu"!!!
    why the repost? |