Climbing Related Finger Injuries : Prevention

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These Tips are Gold when it comes to Prevention of Climbing Related Finger Injuries, which occur quite often amongst Progress Oriented Climbers for obvious reasons. A good prevention strategy is key to avoid most short term accidents and long term overloads, both of which can develop into real throw-backs.

This is the first episode of a whole series dedicated to the topic of climbing related injuries in general. Don’t forget to like, share and subscribe if you’ve got something from it, and I would also like to encourage You to share your experience with injury in the comment section, as I’m sure a lot of people including myself would like to learn from them as well. Thank you for your attention, see you soon!

Climbing Related Finger Injuries : Prevention

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28 Comments

  1. Great video Mani! Wish I watched this a couple weeks ago. Recently decided I was ready to project much crimpier problems and quickly injured my finger. Classic mistake of confusing muscular strength with tendon strength! I also watched your video on treatment (as well as some from other climbers) and will be climbing less aggressive problems with some tape on my fingers to help in recovery. Thanks so much!

  2. VABI says:

    Thank you very much for good channel, great job 🙂
    I agree with you about avoid full crimp in indore climbing when somebody climb outdoors but when you climb only indoor what to do?

  3. Why is using the thumb on a crimp worse than only 3 fingers?

  4. Great video, as usual! For a related idea on the same topic, I recently installed on hangboard at home and want to train my fingers and finger strength. However, I have no idea how to fit that in to a 3 day/week climbing regiment w/o risking serious fatigue and eventual injury. Any advice on incorporating hangboards healthily?

  5. Watched this video, listened to Mani say, "if you're feeling stronger, be careful.", was crushing it last night feeling really strong, and… bam. Significant strain injury on my meta carpals. womp womp 🙁

  6. Hey Mani, could you make a video about prevention, treatment and slow reintroduction to climbing from elbow injuries?
    I've had to stop climbing for a month due to medial epicondylitis… and I'll go back to the gym soon, but still feeling some pain.
    It's very common, very painful and the treatment is not very clear, so it'd be great if you can make a video!

  7. im almost 1 year in with my finger injury, getting better but doesnt go away. take his advice seriously!!!

  8. lukecefer says:

    I have to admit that I am currently recovering from a finger injury that this video would have probably prevented… that said thank you for all of your videos, I've been watching a lot of them and find them very helpful and full of valuable information. The editing and thoughtfulness that you put in are apparent!

  9. @ManiTheMonkey I wanted to share a little trick I came up with for a more efficient taping method. I basically use the H method but instead of cutting the tape up to the middle from both sides (which makes things a bit complicated to then apply it around your finger) I make a small cut, about 2 to 3cm on one side and cut a long on on the other stopping at about 1cm away from the short cut. What this methods improves is that it's easier to tape your fingers and it stays better even after a long climbing season. Also doesn't need to be re-taped on top like Volker shows on his videos. I know almost nothing about climbing I literally just started but your videos did help a lot, I hope this becomes useful to you!
    Thanks 😉

  10. Today I was sand papering of my calluses and my roommate was so confused. Btw after 3 years of climbing it gets to a point were your hands are so rough and sore u just don't care anymore.

  11. Cheers for these videos! It's definitely given me food for thought when I'm at the climbing wall.

  12. Love your channel and the effort and passion you put into your videos. It really shows man. Keep up the great work!

  13. GCiova says:

    I only want to share my experience. I injured my shoulder one year ago and now, after a surgery, i'm starting to climb again. I have two advices: 1 WARM UP! i injured my shoulder on the first climbing of the day (outdoor) and the route was only a 6a. 2 train all the body. i careless my shoulders for years, i only train my back and my arms but never the shoulders (do Planck, push up for shoulders and, the most important, use the ELASTIC BAND). i'm sorry for my bad english and dude, you are great!

  14. Fantastic video! Really amazing editing as well, but just the way you explained everything is awesome as usual 🙂

  15. You should read some journals of Andreas Schweizer or his book Vertical Secrets, when you consider talking about this topic (Doctor at Balgrist Klinik Zürich). He also climbs 8c btw…

  16. Keep those fingernails and toenails trimmed up short.

  17. Well shit! Nice video man, Just got my first climbing related injury after climbing for four years. An interesting thing happened when I was climbing at my favriote crag Willow river, trying my proj and there is a powerful move on shit feet to a big jug inside a waco and my hand hit the lip and i bumped it back to the good part of the hold and I felt this pain in my hand that I have never felt before. Really bummed right now. I guess my point is that it is not always the crimps that get you. Hopefully one day I can send that route it will amazing when it happens. LOL sorry for the rant story!

    Onwards

  18. I don't know why I was unsubscribed? anyway, I had a friend that dislocated his elbow haha he still climbs and is way better than me =)

  19. Do you have videos on shoulder injuries, I seem to have damaged my rotator cuff a few months ago and I haven't been able to climb ever since and I wonder if I will be able to climb ever again 🙁

  20. Very nice video man! Thank you for putting this up! I m lucky that I never had any injuries so far and I hope it will continue like that 🙂 Very good tips!

  21. MPVfan2 says:

    I love your videos, but the sound is not the best. Did you think about getting a pro microphone?

  22. Good video! Will follow these steps. I'm a beginner in bouldering, just recently got my first 7a. No injuries yet and I'd like to keep it that way.

  23. I'm new to climbing and one thing I do is to not work on a route more then maybe 6 times. I use to make a dozen attempts and my hands would cave. Working the same holds over and over cause some strain. So if I work on a problem that is crimpy and I do not top out in 6 attempts, I move on to another problem with different holds, maybe slopers. Good advice in the video. Cheers!

  24. Polar says:

    Dealing with a finger injury right now and I'll admit it's probably because I was breaking all the rules in this video… been off climbing for about a month now :/

  25. Warmup is super important as well👍

  26. Yay! I'm dealing with a finger injury (middle joint in the middle finger) and according to the doctor it's due to faster advancement in the difficulty of my climbing than my finger could keep up with. So I'm doing some rehab now. Looking forward the coming videos, especially hoping for some warm up tips. I think it's hard when bouldering outdoors to know if my fingers are ready or not for the project, specially if it's a crimpy problem.

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